Posted in Ideas & Tips

Everything you need to know about leasing a van by Rapid Vans

Fed up with your current vehicle but don’t have the money to buy a new one outright? Or perhaps you’re in need of a van for your business and don’t have the capital to invest? Whatever the situation, van leasing is a great way to get all of the convenience of a new vehicle without breaking the bank. But how exactly does it work?

Actually, it’s surprisingly simple. If you’re looking for a low cost van, there are a variety of leasing options to choose from. So whether you’re on a tight budget or looking to splash out on the latest models, you can find a financing option that suits your individual needs. And once you’ve chosen one, you’ll know exactly how much you will be spending on your vehicle every month, with no unexpected costs. Moreover, you don’t need to worry about your van depreciating in value while you own it – unlike when you purchase a vehicle outright.

Vehicle-wise, most dealers will have a fantastic range for you to choose from, including models from popular brands such as Nissan and Ford. Need something small and compact that delivers excellent mileage at a low cost? Or perhaps a spacious and flexible work van is more what you’re looking for? With van leasing, it’s easy to find the perfect vehicle for you – no matter what your requirements.

Normally, you’ll pay an initial fee at the start of your rental period to secure your vehicle. After that, your monthly installments will start at the rate agreed in your payment plan. And when your contract is over, you’re free to either return your vehicle or swap it for a newer model. In many cases, there’s also the option buy your van outright – making leasing an affordable way to use, and eventually own, the vehicle you’ve always wanted.

Feel like van leasing could be the right step for you? At Rapid Vans we’ve got an excellent selection of affordable leasing packages on a wide variety of vehicles. So why not take a look today?

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6 Easy Tips for Maintaining Your Car in Top Shape

Keeping your car humming happily is simple and will save you time and money.

We’re so used to cellphones, TVs, computers, and home appliances that need no regular checks or maintenance, that last until they don’t and then get trashed and replaced, that it’s tempting to think of our vehicles as equally attention-free and reliable. And we’re just so busy every day.

But modern vehicles aren’t electronics. Rather, they’re incredibly complex machines—mechanical devices made of thousands of parts, many of which move up, down, or around. And of course, they roll on inflatable rubber tires. Some of these components need occasional attention to keep them operating properly, and others eventually require replacement.

There are many reasons to take care of your daily wheels. Regular maintenance is quick, easy, and cheap, while major repairs are expensive. It’s also comforting to know that your car, SUV, or truck is in good shape regardless of its age or mileage, with no need to worry about delays or breakdowns on long trips or your commute. Well-maintained vehicles last longer and hold more of their resale and trade-in value than neglected ones. In other words, take care of your car and it will take care of you.

The good news is that you don’t have to be a car enthusiast or even marginally mechanically inclined to keep your car in top shape. And it takes hardly any time. Here’s a list of six easy things to check that have the potential to prevent costly problems and keep your vehicle humming happily for many years. We’ve provided illustrations to help you find the components under the hood that need to be examined. But it’s always a good idea to read your owner’s manual to locate these items on your particular vehicle and to know the manufacturer’s service recommendations for them.

We suggest you start by inspecting everything on this list the first time through to make sure your car is ready to go. Beyond that, it’s all about periodic checks and maintenance—such as oil changes—as dictated by the owner’s manual and common sense.

How’s the Oil Level?

Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. Oil lubricates all the moving parts in your car’s engine, so you never want to let it run low. Almost all of today’s cars have engines that are so well built and thoroughly sealed that they won’t use any significant amount of oil between the recommended oil and filter changes. But you won’t know for sure if your car is an exception to the rule unless you check. Or maybe you drive an older car that does use some oil. Here’s how to check your oil:

  • Make sure the engine is off. Open the hood. The release is usually found under the driver’s-side dash; the safety catch is under the lip of the hood.
  • Find the (usually well-labeled) engine-oil dipstick, and pull it out. (It’s often yellow, for easy spotting.) Wipe the end with a clean cloth, replace the dipstick fully back into its sheath, and pull it out again.
  • Now look at the tip; the markings indicate a range from full to one-quart low. You will see a light coating of oil on the end of the dipstick. If it’s between the minimum and maximum lines, you’re good. If it’s at or below minimum, add a quart of your vehicle’s recommended oil. (You’ll find that listed in the owner’s manual.)
  • You add oil by twisting off the cap marked with the oil-can symbol (which often also has the word “oil” on it) that sits in plain view atop the engine and pouring in a quart of oil.
  • Be sure to wipe any drips off the engine; oil can smoke when it gets hot.

Your engine doesn’t just need enough oil, it needs clean oil. So be sure to get the oil and oil filter changed at the mileage intervals recommended in the owner’s manual.

Make Sure You Have Windshield-Washer Fluid

It’s never fun to run out of washer fluid, but it’s particularly bad in winter, when road muck and salt mess up the windshield and play havoc with visibility. How often you check the windshield-washer reservoir depends on the season and the weather. Here’s how to check it:

  • The windshield-washer reservoir is located under the hood.
  • Washer tanks are often made of translucent plastic, allowing you to check the level visually. But many are also tucked out of sight, so there’s no way to tell how full they are—except when you fill them to the brim.
  • Pop the reservoir cap. It’s marked with the icon of windshield-wiper spray. Fill the reservoir with washer fluid.
  • Do not use pure water; freezing temperatures will cause the water in the reservoir to turn to ice, rendering your wipers useless. Commercial washer fluid has alcohol in it that keeps it from turning solid in all but Alaskan-winter temperatures.

Check the Tires’ Air Pressure

Newer cars have a tire-pressure warning light to let you know that your tires are low on air, but older cars do not. In any case, it’s best to purchase a tire-pressure gauge at an auto-parts store for a few dollars and check your tire pressures to make sure they’re set correctly. Here’s what you need to know:

  • A sticker on the driver’s door pillar lists the proper inflation pressure for when the tires are cold (meaning that you haven’t yet driven on them that day).
  • If you set the pressures after you’ve been driving for a while (more than a few miles), they should be raised by three pounds per square inch, as tires warm up and pressures rise when they are driven on.
  • Check your tire pressures once a month for a couple of months. If the pressures remain steady, you can check them quarterly, as you know the tires are holding air.

Is the Radiator Full?

The radiator contains coolant that keeps your engine’s temperature under control, and it can be checked visually. Here’s how:

  • Find the coolant reservoir under the hood. It’s made of translucent plastic, marked with “min” and “max” lines, and is, in all likelihood, holding a green fluid.
  • When the engine is cool, the coolant level should reside between the lines.
  • If it’s low, buy some antifreeze and top it off.
  • Never attempt to refill the cooling system through the radiator cap! If the engine is warm, loosening the radiator cap—the black cap located atop the radiator as shown in the illustration above—can cause it to spit back scalding water. Always refill through the reservoir, which is not under pressure.
  • If the coolant is low during your initial check, recheck it monthly. If it keeps disappearing, you have a problem and need to bring the car to a dealer or repair shop.
  • If the coolant level remains in the zone, you’re good to go for a long time. Coolant lasts for years, but not indefinitely. Replacing it is a job for a repair facility. Check your owner’s manual to see how often the manufacturer suggests it be replaced.

Brake-Fluid Check

When you push on the brake pedal, you are pumping brake fluid through the system to the brakes. For most cars, the brake-fluid reservoir is translucent plastic, so you can see if it’s full. And like most other systems, today’s brake systems are well sealed and almost never leak. Almost. Here’s how to check the brake-fluid level:

  • If the brake reservoir is full when you check it, your brake system has integrity.
  • If fluid is low, purchase brake fluid and refill the reservoir.
  • Check it weekly. If the fluid level continues to go down, however slowly, take the car to a repair facility. You have a problem that can make driving dangerous.
  • Like coolant, brake fluid has a working life and must be replaced at regular, long-term intervals. Consult your owner’s manual to see at what mileage point it should be replaced. That should be done by a shop.

The other brake items that wear out are the brake pads. Pads can last for 20,000 miles or more—sometimes much more—depending on your car and driving conditions. But this isn’t something that can be easily checked at home. When a car is under warranty, an inspection of the brake pads is usually part of the routine scheduled maintenance.

If you drive an older car, you’ll need a shop (or a mechanically inclined friend who knows brakes) to establish how much meat there is on the pads. It’s valuable to know the remaining pad life because you want to anticipate when you’ll need to replace them. If you wait too long, the pad linings can wear through to the metal backing plates and do big damage to the car’s brake rotors. So get a handle on remaining brake-pad life.

Need Tires?

Tires are the all-important connection between your car and the road. You don’t want to let them wear until they’re bald. At that point, they act like water skis when the road gets wet and ride on the film of water, making it much easier to lose control. Tread should be visible across the tire. Better still, use a penny to check if the depth of the tread is adequate. Here’s how:

  • Insert the edge of the penny into the tread, making sure Lincoln’s head is upside down (the top of the president’s head should be touching the tread), with the head facing so you can see it.
  • If you can see all of Lincoln’s head, the tread grooves are too shallow (about 2/32 of an inch or less) to drive in wet weather; those grooves channel rainwater away and keep the tire in contact with the road. Replace your tires!
  • If you’re unsure about whether the tires are due for replacement, see a tire dealer. It’s also a good idea to rotate your tires front to rear annually to even out the wear. And if you live in the cold-weather states, it’s smart to invest in a set of winter tires.

That’s the easy stuff, and if all you do is occasionally check these six areas, you’ll be fine a long way down the road—literally and figuratively. Leave the rest to the experts.


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Posted in Ideas & Tips

5 Myths of Going Electric

I’ve always been curious about alternative fuels and their value proposition. The possibility to eventually substitute oil, even partly, has been a subject of high tech and innovation – so naturally, as an engineer and an enthused problem solver, I quickly became attracted to this whole theme.

It wasn’t until the legendary oil embargo, in ‘73, that the world took the call to action to explore ways to overcome oil dependency. Electric vehicles (EVs), which, by the way, were introduced more than 100 years ago, have posed hope to resist our thirst for gas. But it has taken us the same 100 years to begin believing, and perhaps accepting, its utility.

In the early 1900s, when cities dealt with unusual issues, like malodorous environmental challenges from animal dung, London had an estimated 300,000 horses around the city center leaving behind rivers of muck and high exposure to diseases. An article from The Economist called, “Breaking the habit – the future of oil,” describes the first international urban-planning conference, held in New York in 1898, where manure was at the top of their agenda. No remedies could be found, and the disappointed delegates returned home a week early.

Nevertheless, it took less than 15 years to get rid of such stinking intricacy. Per the article, by 1912, cars in New York outnumbered horses, and in 1917 the last horse-drawn streetcar was retired in Manhattan. That moment of progress, however, marked the inception of our global dependence on oil. We needed gasoline badly.

The EV value proposition has enjoyed an obstinate trend for the past few years. The convergence of environmental awareness, tech innovation, consumer assent, regulatory-conscious states and unions, investments by auto manufacturers, and financial viability are all together paving the road for EVs.

Even still, EVs are beset with challenges lacking commonly accepted range values, and battery sets still somewhat costly. Bloomberg New Energy Finance estimated that the cost of an EV battery has reduced by at least a third in the last six years ($273/kWh in 2016, compared to $1,000/kWh in 2010). The same report implies that $100/kWh is the price point at which EVs will reach true cost parity with ICEs (internal combustion engine vehicles). That should happen in the next year or two.

There are many considerations for fleet managers in giving shape to their fleets. With technology advancements, consumer appetite and the regulatory forces in play, practical choices are emerging for Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicles (PHEVs) and Battery Electric Vehicles (BEVs). Some countries and cities have placed restrictions on future sales of ICEs.

Here are some of the myths I’ve heard, and the truths behind them:

Myth #1: There aren’t enough EVs to choose from.
While it’s true that there are many more choices for gas or diesel engines, the collection of EVs is increasing every year. For the 2018 model year, there were 58 EV and PHEVs available, and another 49 for 2019. And that number continues to grow. In fact, global EV stock is projected to be 13 million vehicles by 2020, presenting buyers with additional options.

The adoption of EVs is still largely driven by the policy environment. Effective policy measures have proven instrumental in making EVs more appealing to private individuals and businesses, which has encouraged manufacturers to scale up production.

Myth #2: EVs are too expensive.
It’s too early to tell the total cost of ownership (TCO) of a fleet EV in the United States, due to a lack of data. But LeasePlan Consultancy Services has shown that there are affordable electric options available today. And some of those options are offered in the United States.

Additionally, a 2018 study from the University of Michigan’s Transportation Research Institute found that EVs cost less than half as much to operate as gas-powered cars. The average cost to operate an EV in the United States is $485 per year, while the average for a gasoline-powered vehicle is $1,117.

Myth #3: The range isn’t high enough, which gives me anxiety.
The average all-electric battery range of current EVs (minus Tesla) is about 140 miles, while a few luxury models have ranges up to 335 miles. However, it obviously varies greatly. But, the good news is, as technology advances, the battery range follows suit. Since 2013, the estimated range for many EVs has increased significantly. For example, base models of the Nissan Leaf and Tesla Model S grew from 75 and 208 miles per charge in 2013 to about 107 and up to 249 miles in 2017, respectively.

There’s a mindset change that’s necessary when driving an EV. It requires you to plan ahead and ask yourself some questions before you leave the house. How far am I driving today? Will there be a charging station near my destination? Can I charge it at home? There are even apps that can help drivers find the nearest charging station, so that should help ease range anxiety as well.

Myth #4: There aren’t enough charging stations.
It might surprise you, but most EV charging takes place at home. At a Level 1 that can be plugged into a standard 110v electrical outlet this is the easiest, albeit slowest, way to charge your vehicle. But if you’re impatient like me, you can install a Level 2 charger at your home to charge up much faster. If you’re out and about, there are more than 20,000 charging stations in the United States. As demand, policy changes and incentives for the infrastructure increases, the number of charging stations will only continue to grow.

Myth #5: I don’t know anything about electric vehicles.
Well, you’re in luck! Use our eBook to learn all about EVs. From the definition of an EV, to current and future supply, to “fuel efficiency” and zero emissions, to charging types and infrastructure, this eBook has it all. Start learning about EVs now by downloading the eBook, It’s electric! The future of EVs in America.

And if it piques your interest and you want even more information, please contact us. We’ve got the right instruments and toolset to evaluate if it’s the right time for you to switch to EVs for your fleet, even partly. In reality, it’s not for everyone right now. We can help you determine the right vehicle for your fleet’s needs, aid in lowering your fleet’s CO2 emissions, and support your drivers in the transition to EVs. It’s all here.

At LeasePlan, we’re going to be early adopters of EVs. LeasePlan’s own employee fleet is currently going electric, making us the first major leasing company to make the switch, by 2021. That way, we can implement EVs, and while learning from it, help you do the same for your fleet. I, for one, am thrilled about driving an EV!

Make your business more convenient by using home delivery van and if you have any question of suggestion regarding this please contact us.

Posted in Ideas & Tips

Getting the Best Gas Mileage Out Of Your Conversion Van

Conversion vans do not boast best-in-class fuel mileage numbers like they boast the number of fun adventures had, but they can offer fuel economy if maintained regularly. The typical conversion van will get approximately 12-16 miles per gallon (mpg), depending on the model. Let’s explore factors that effect fuel economy and how to get the best gas mileage out of your van.

Conversion Vans and Fuel Efficiency

Weight is a primary foe of fuel efficiency. Most safety technologies have added weight. Hauling around more weight means engines need to produce more power.

Mark owns a 2002 Chevy Express high-top conversion van. He drives the van roughly 70% on the highway with cruise control on, and the rest city driving. His van is equipped with a wheelchair lift, which adds weight. “My gas mileage is 10 mpg.”

Susan owns a 2001 Chevy Express 15-passenger van on a 1 ton chassis. “I purchased it used with nearly 40,000 miles. About four years later, I got a tune-up at 91,000 miles. My van still averages 10-11 mpg.” Her van’s 30-gallon fuel tank allows for a total trip of 390-320 miles before she needs to stop for fuel.

According to The U.S. Department of Energy, Mark’s and Susan’s Chevy Express vans should be getting 14 mpg, combined city and highway.

If you ask different owners of the same conversion van models, they are getting 15 to 18 mpg. What is their secret?

Weather conditions (wind), van maintenance, road conditions (hills, traffic congestion, etc.) and driving city or highway are among the factors affecting your van’s gas mileage. City driving brings the average down real fast. The only mileage that you can reliably compare between vans is highway mileage (with no city) at the same speed.

8 Helpful Tips for Conversion Van Gas Mileage

Gas mileage for any vehicle is affected by driving style (if you are an aggressive driver, for example), speed, driving conditions and vehicle maintenance.

Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) wastes gas and can lower your gas mileage by 33 percent at highway speeds and by 5 percent around town. Sensible driving is safer for you, pedestrians and other drivers, so you may save more than just gas money.

While each van reaches its optimal fuel economy at a different speed (or range of speeds); gas mileage usually decreases rapidly at speeds above 50 mph.

Each 5 mph you drive over 50 mph is like paying an additional $0.25 per gallon for gas.

Here are tips for ensuring you get the best fuel economy:

  1. Make sure your tires are inflated properly.
  2. Verify that the engine air filter is clean.
  3. Spark plugs. Do you have the right ones? Is the gap right? Check the three in the front; they are easiest to access.
  4. Does the torque converter lock? When you’re driving at a constant speed of about 40-45 mph the converter should lock, so the rpm’s drop by about 500.
  5. Check the engine oil and transmission fluid levels. Have oil changes been done regularly, or is the engine clogging up?
  6. Avoid excessive idling. Idling can use a quarter to a half gallon of fuel per hour, depending on engine size and air conditioner (AC) use. Turn off your engine when your vehicle is parked. It only takes a few seconds worth of fuel to restart your vehicle.
  7. Use cruise control. Using cruise control on the highway helps you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, will save gas.
  8. Remove excessive weight. An extra 100 pounds in your vehicle could reduce your mpg by up to 2 percent.

How to Calculate Your Conversion Van Gas Mileage

The best way to calculate your conversion van’s gas mileage is to divide the miles driven (as registered on your odometer) by the gallons of fuel used. You can also use the trip computer miles-per-gallon calculation, if your van model is equipped with one.

Your conversion van trip computer may display the distant to empty (DTE). DTE is an estimate of how many more miles you can drive based on the amount of gas in the tank and your recent fuel economy. It will reset automatically when you fill the tank and will depend on your driving style, speed and fuel economy. The DTE can reflect whether you use a heavy throttle foot.

The DTE will get more accurate as you use up gasoline since it tells you what remains. It does not subtract from the initial number; for example, the DTE reads 300 miles, but you drive 150 miles and now the DTE reads 200 miles.

The U.S. Department of Energy has a handy annual fuel cost calculator to help you estimate what your yearly and lifetime fuel costs may be.

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Van Hire: Things to Know

A good van hire service can help you do more and save money too. However, there are so many van hire services available today that it is really hard to select the right van for your needs. Don’t worry, we will help you overcome this problem. What are the things you should know when hiring a van? Well, here is a look.

1. Selecting the right van

The first thing is to select the right van. First of all, you need to see the size and capacity of the vehicle. This is the first step in order to select in the right van. Price is a factor, no doubt. However, you also have to look at your needs. There are various types of vans and you should select one which has a good amount of space.

2. Decide what you need the van for

What do you need the van for? For instance, if you need a van for relocating, you need to make sure that there is enough space for your belongings. Similarly, if you need to go a trip, you need to make sure that the van will be able to accommodate everything. You need to see that the mileage the vehicle offers as well. After all, a good mileage means saving on fuel costs.

3. Driving the van

Vans aren’t only there for relocation services. You might even need a van for a trip. If you will be the one who will be driving the van during the trip, you need to understand that driving the van is not similar to driving a car. Before you actually go for the trip, take some time out from your busy schedule and drive the van to see how much comfortable you are.

4. Check everything out

You also have to make sure that the engine, breaks, clutch and gears are working properly. That’s not all there is to it. You should make sure that other things like seat belts and mirrors are working properly as well and you have the required documents. You should be aware about the height and width of the van too. This way, you can understand the road restriction signs properly.

5. Check the expenses

When you are planning to hire a van, make sure there are no hidden costs. Ask for a clear view of things and be wary of hidden costs. You need to ask everything properly from before, to avoid spending more.

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Top Myths About 4 Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive

As January winds down and Groundhog’s Day approaches, many people in West Michigan will be waiting with anticipation to find out if Punxsutawney Phil will not see his shadow and usher in an early spring or if Grand Rapids will continue to receive 6 more weeks of winter.  While some may find hope in this furry forecaster’s findings for a reprieve from more snow and cold in the coming months, most of us in West Michigan realize that the only thing we’re guaranteed of is more wintry weather will be delivered.

With an abundance of snow more than likely on the way, many people will turn to vehicles equipped with All Wheel Drive and 4 Wheel Drive to help them traverse the wintry roads in Grand Rapids.  But are the benefits most people think of with AWD and 4WD all true?  Here are the most common myths associated with 4 Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive…

Myth #1: All Wheel Drive & 4 Wheel Drive Are The Same

While 4 Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive both achieve similar ends of increasing traction during acceleration by providing power to all four tires at the same time, they go about it with quite different methods and means.  All Wheel Drive systems utilize a front, center and rear differential with a variety of sensors, determining which wheels have the most grip, all while seamlessly and automatically redirecting power to those with less.With 4 Wheel Drive, power is supplied from the transmission to a transfer case, where it is then equally split between the front and rear axles for maximum torque.  By doing so, the transfer case ensures that all four wheels turn simultaneously and evenly, and in doing so, allows the tires to turn at the same speed.  As you can see, these differences can have their own benefits and drawbacks depending on what you’re trying to achieve.

Myth #2: AWD/4WD Is The Most Important Feature For Driving In Snow

A major misconception about All Wheel Drive and 4 Wheel drive vehicles is that these drivetrain systems are safer in inclement weather including snow, sleet and ice but good tires and driver input are actually the most important factors while driving on slippery road conditions.  There are many significant safety features, including ABS and Traction Control, that work as a collective group to improve your vehicle’s overall safety and 4WD/AWD drivetrain systems are part of this group.  Yes, all wheel drive or 4 wheel drive can be helpful in snowy conditions but they are not the most important feature for keeping your vehicle on the road when braving inclement conditions.

Myth #3: 4 Wheel Drive & All Wheel Drive Makes You Invincible

One of the widest misconceptions we find among people concerning winter driving is that All Wheel Drive or 4×4 vehicles are safer on snow or ice and this idea often creates an overly confident attitude behind the wheel on slick roads.  While some consider All Wheel Drive vehicles better at handling than 2 wheel drive vehicles, the truth is that the all wheel drive feature is really only improving acceleration.  By diverting the engine’s power to the tires that have the most traction, all-wheel drive vehicles are able to accelerate faster but the secret of maintaining control truly lies in the tires ability to grip the road beneath it and that job is held solely by the tires on your car or truck.

Myth #4: AWD & 4WD Help With Braking

Another common misconception is that 4 Wheel Drive or All Wheel Drive drivetrain systems help your vehicle brake faster in inclement weather but that could not be farther from the truth.  Because AWD and 4WD are systems designed to help your vehicle accelerate, they have nothing to do with your braking system and do not help your vehicle stop any faster than it would without it.

Myth #5: 4 Wheel Drive & All Wheel Drive Allow You To Drive Normal Speeds On Inclement Roads

Although 4 Wheel Drive and All Wheel Drive vehicles do help improve traction, vehicles equipped with these drivetrains often woo drivers into a false sense of security when driving on slippery roads and frequently drivers feel they can travel at the same rate of speed on slick roads as they would on dry, more ideal conditions.  All-wheel drive and 4 Wheel Drive can make the vehicle feel more stable than it actually is, resulting in situations where drivers drive too fast and brake too abruptly.  Winter driving still requires care and caution, with tried and true methods of slowing down and allowing for more space between your vehicle and the one ahead of you to be critical in avoiding accidents.

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Your Teen & Winter Driving… Everything They Need To Know In The Snow

Handing over the keys to the family car to your teen can be a scary prospect to many parents but doing so when the roads are covered with ice, sleet or snow is even tougher.  While you can’t safeguard against every situation they may encounter while behind the wheel, preparing them for winter driving is certainly a necessity.  Here are tips for your teen & winter driving… everything they need to know in the snow.

Getting The Vehicle Ready

It might be second nature to you but to your teen, knowing how to safely warm up their vehicle before taking off or how to safely remove ice and snow from the vehicle could be something they’ve never even thought about! When starting their vehicle to idle, talk to them about the dangers of doing so in an enclosed space like a garage with the door down. 

And while fuel injected engines do not need to warm up for extended periods of time like the old carburetor relics of the past it can become necessary to run it when frost is on the windshield and windshield wipers in order to get ice and snow completely removed. Show them how to scrape the windshield with an ice scraper without damaging the wiper blades or the vehicle’s paint and how to carefully lift the blades to clear ice and snow from below.

In addition, explain to them the importance of clearing all the snow off of their vehicle, including on the hood, rooftop, trunk, headlights, taillights and license plate. Remind them that this is not only what’s safe but what is required by Michigan law.

Driving On The Road

One of the best ways your teen driver can lower their risk of getting into an accident during the winter is to simply slow down when roads begin to get slick or snow covered in West Michigan. Begin by teaching them that any maneuver will take longer in slippery conditions including accelerating, braking and turning so they aren’t surprised by their vehicles unresponsiveness. Then take them out on short drives while you’re in the vehicle in order to coach them through the experience. Remind them to increase their distance behind other vehicles to accommodate for longer braking times and to accelerate slowly at lights and stop signs to maintain traction.

Additionally, they should know that they should never use cruise control when roads are wet with rain, snow or ice which can lead to losing control of the vehicle. If they do begin to skid, remind them that they should always steer in the direction that they want to go.

Common Pitfalls

It may be difficult for young drivers to understand how normal actions or locations can be treacherous in wintry conditions in Grand Rapids but giving them a heads up before they head out can help solidify in them new habits that can keep them safer.  Talk to them about bridges becoming icy before normal roadways, as well as underpasses on the highway. Remind them to avoid increasing their acceleration rapidly while driving on them or while trying to gain momentum on a hill which could cause their tires to spin and lose traction.

Vehicle Tips

To always be prepared may be the motto for Boy Scouts but we could all take note on how that can help every driver in West Michigan. Keep your gas tank at least half full during the long winter months in Grand Rapids and make sure there is the recommended amount of tire pressure at all times. While they may not think it’s important or necessary, talk to them about wearing or at least bringing a warm hat, gloves and coat in the vehicle in case it breaks down or in the event they become stranded, as well as keeping blankets stored in the vehicle.

Additionally parents should be sure to inspect their teen’s tires on their vehicle to make ensure they have enough tread to handle the increased need for traction, which in winter should be no less than 6/32″.

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3 Questions To Consider Before Buying Your Next Car

Buying a vehicle can have a significant effect on both your budget and your overall peace of mind so it’s no wonder why so many people feel overwhelmed by the task.  But taking the time to ask yourself the following useful questions before you even begin your search, can lessen the burden and help lead you down the right path for you, your lifestyle and your wallet.

Should I buy a new or used car?

Buying a brand new vehicle versus a quality pre-owned vehicle can literally cost you thousands of dollars more but that shouldn’t immediately turn you away from buying a new car, nor should the possible issues that could arise from buying a used car leave you running for the hills in fear of purchasing a lemon.  There are clear benefits to buying new and purchasing used, and only by considering all the pro’s and cons of each, can someone decide which is the right choice for them.

Some benefits to buying a new car, truck, SUV or minivan over purchasing a used vehicle are the reduced risk of mechanical issues with the vehicle, receiving a longer warranty coverage and newer options and features in the vehicle. While those are great, it’s also to remember the upsides of buying used and the downside of new.  Some benefits to buying a used car, SUV, minivan or truck are the significant reduction in price, far less immediate depreciation once you own the vehicle, cheaper insurance rates for coverage as well as more prior owners input on the specific make and model vehicle you’re considering buying. 

Only by considering which benefits you are most interested in receiving, can you begin to choose whether a new or used vehicle is right for your needs.

Am I in shape to purchase a vehicle right now?

There are certainly times where it becomes vital to purchase a vehicle sooner rather than later, like if your current car dies on you unexpectedly or if you have the unfortunate event to be involved in an auto accident.  But barring the absolute need to purchase immediately, buyers should ask themselves if their credit and if they are financially in the best shape to be making that purchase.  Knowing your credit before approaching a dealership can help you understand what financing options you have independent of the dealership so you don’t end up with a higher interest rate than necessary. 

In addition, waiting until you can put a decent down payment on a vehicle is always a smarter option over financing the entire purchase.  Take the time, if you have it, to honestly evaluate where you are at with your finances to decide when the best time to buy might be.

There are certainly times where it becomes vital to purchase a vehicle sooner rather than later, like if your current car dies on you unexpectedly or if you have the unfortunate event to be involved in an auto accident.  But barring the absolute need to purchase immediately, buyers should ask themselves if their credit and if they are financially in the best shape to be making that purchase.  Knowing your credit before approaching a dealership can help you understand what financing options you have independent of the dealership so you don’t end up with a higher interest rate than necessary. 

In addition, waiting until you can put a decent down payment on a vehicle is always a smarter option over financing the entire purchase.  Take the time, if you have it, to honestly evaluate where you are at with your finances to decide when the best time to buy might be.

How much should I spend?

Budget is the word no one likes to spend time thinking about but one that most of us need to focus on closely when purchasing a vehicle.  The questions… ‘how much can I afford to spend’ and ‘how much am I actually willing to spend’ are critical to understanding where you should begin your search.  While buying a vehicle tends to involve a rather hefty price, the simple fact remains that they depreciate very quickly over time. 

In fact, experts estimate that new cars lose up to 19% of its value in its first year of ownership!!  Wow!  While some may prefer to buy a brand new car, it’s easy to understand why so many prefer purchasing a quality, used car, truck, van or SUV instead.

When considering how much you can afford, decide if you are planning on paying cash for it entirely or if you’ll need to finance some or all of the purchase.  If you are planning on paying cash, how much money is available to you?  And if you’re financing, you’ll need to look not only at what you’re approved for but also at the bottom line.  Remember that taxes and other fees, such as registration and license plate, will add to that grand total.  Beware of overstretching yourself in your purchase as owning a vehicle comes with its own cost of maintaining it and keeping it insured.

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Three Types Of Heat Transfer In A Van

There are three types of heat transfer that can occur and cause your van to heat up or cool down at different rates. When insulating your van, it is important to know these three types, how they work, and how you can manipulate them to make your vanlife experience more comfortable.

The three types of radiant heat transfer are:

▸ Radiation
▸ Conduction
▸ Convection

Radiation

Radiation is heat that can be transferred between two areas without any contact to the heat source; either through the air or within a vacuum.

You can feel the sun’s warmth on your skin even though you are not touching it – that is radiant heat transfer.

In a van, radiation occurs most prominently through the windows. If you park a car with large windows in direct sunlight, the inside of the vehicle will heat up quickly. This is because radiant heat transfers easily through glass.

How can you manipulate radiant heat?

Radiant heat can redirect off reflective surfaces, preventing heat from getting through. When you place a reflective sunshade on the windshield of your car, heat from the sun bounces off the shade back outwards rather than continuing into your van.

There are many materials to protect against radiant heat transfer. Metals like aluminum reflect heat, as well as materials like Reflectix and Infra stop.

To keep your van cool, place a reflective material like Reflect ix on your windows with the shiny side facing out. This way the sun’s heat will bounce off and prevent so much warmth from entering the car.

To keep the van warmer during the winter months, place Reflectix on the windows with the shiny side facing in. If you are running a heater inside for example, the heat will bounce off the shiny side, and back into the vehicle rather than escaping out.

Conduction

Conduction occurs when heat is transferred through an object. When cooking with a cast iron skillet, you can feel the handle get hot even though that handle is not touching the fire.

The metal framing of your van walls are excellent conductors of heat. Without any insulation, a van sitting directly in the sun will heat up fast. The inside metal can be hot to the touch because heat is transferred very efficiently through the outside walls.

The reverse is true when it comes to cold cold. If you hold a metal bucket full of ice, it will quickly draw the heat out of your hands. If you hold a foam bucket full of ice, the heat will stay in your hands.

Different materials have different levels of conduction. In general, the more porous a material is, the less it conducts heat because air is a poor conductor.

Nothing resists conduction better than a vacuum; this is why vacuum insulated mugs work so well. Heat cannot transfer through a material that is not there. But it is hardly possible to create a durable, leak free vacuum in something like a van.

Carpet, foam or wool are poor conductors of heat; meaning it is not easy for heat to transfer through them.

Measuring conduction with R-Value

A material’s heat conduction is measured by an R-Value. The higher the R-value, the harder it is for heat to transfer through a material. Aluminum has a low value of R-0.6, wool has a high value of R-3.5.

R-values are measured per inch of material. One inch of wool has a value of R-3.5 and two inches of wool stacked together create a value of R-7.

How can you manipulate heat conduction?

Without insulation, metal cars will get cold fast in the winter because of their low R-value. To prevent a van from getting too cold inside, you can insulate the walls, ceiling and floor with materials that prevent cold air from the outside transferring to the inside of your van.

Advanced Tip: If you feel like you’ve got a handle on general principles of conduction, you can use it to reduce thermal bridging. Thermal bridging is when a conductive material transfers heat through a less conductive material. An example of this is attaching insulation to the walls of your van. If you attach a layer of insulation to the walls by running a bolt through to the metal ribbing of your vehicle, heat from outside can transfer through the metal bolt to the inside. This is because both the metal bolt and metal ribbing are good heat conductors. Keep this in mind when laying out your insulation plan.

Convection

Convection is when heat is transferred through natural movement of liquids and gasses. This is due to liquids and gasses being different densities and temperatures. In a nutshell, hot air is less dense than cold air so it rises.

In cold environments, heat can be lost through the roof of a van if it is not insulated well because hot air rises. Proper insulation of the ceiling is important compared to walls and the floor in cold weather.

In hot environments, heat rises up through the floor making the van warm. Insulation on the floor and ventilation on the roof will help to keep the van cooler.

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Posted in Ideas & Tips

Tips For Securing Content In Your Van While Driving

Securing goods in a tipper can be a nightmare. Here are a few tips for you to make sure that your goods are perfectly safe: 

The roads we drive on today are often twisty and windy, with changes in terrain and sharp bends. We all drive our vans at speeds approaching the national speed limits, which seem pretty fast when you have a van laden with contents.

For drivers of used vans in Swindon, the network of motorways and urban roads presents constant challenges for a variety of reasons, including bad weather conditions and heavy traffic.

Most van owners use their vans for work. Whilst the government publishes guidance for load securing for commercial vehicles, this is directed at open-sided goods vehicles and transporters, rather than the closed loads in a van. There is however, a general best practise guide for van safety, published by the UK government.

What you don’t want is your valuable tools and bits and pieces at risk of sliding around in the back of your van, as you drive. This is not only distracting to your driving, but also dangerous if you have to break sharply and the contents shift or bounce around. With the state of some of our roads and the hazards created by other road users, risks can be compounded.

There are some basic tips and solutions to stop contents moving around in the back of your van. These include partitioning systems, racking, tethering, netting and sheets and also anchor points.

Thankfully, you don’t need to completely remodel the inside of your van to secure your contents. Although many van owners retro-fit custom shelving, a few simple steps for securing your contents can be the solution you’re looking for.

Line the floor

If your van doesn’t already have a floor lining, consider lining the floor with 3/4″ plywood. This makes a good base for non-slip solutions to go on. You can buy heavy rubber mats that can be extended across the floor of your van. There’s also a wide selection of rug pads in a grid-work design, typically used to go underneath home rugs to stop them sliding around on the floor. A word of caution though, because the mat stops sliding, you’ll need to lift in larger objects, whereas you may have previously been able to slide them across the floor. 

Cover your contents

Another useful tip is to cover contents with a sheet, or even with netting or tarpaulin before you tethering the load. The best tethering to secure your van contents are in the form of straps, ropes, cables or chains, anchored to secure points in the van. Contrary to what you might think, bungee cords are not recommended as they can stretch under force of impact and your load can move or even break free.

Tether your contents in the direction of the movement

Furthermore, contents should be tethered to the vehicle in the direction of travel rather than perpendicular to travel. This will provide extra restraint if the contents are jolted, rather than relying on friction to stop things from moving. Checking your restraints and tethering periodically is important to ensure they have not weakened or become damaged or frayed.

If you follow these tips, your van loads and your journeys will be safer, healthier and happier. If you have any queries about the van fleet pest control then please contact us by submitting your comment below.